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Emma is at St. John's Seminary Zambia, teaching theology to students

Dear Friends

Mwa le leni? (How are you, have you eaten well etc!). I have just enjoyed three weeks of, well, not exactly 'holiday', but three weeks of no lessons to teach! One week was spent in Livingstone and gazing upon the amazing Victoria Falls, and the other two were full of lesson preparation, staff meetings and helping to write course outlines for the new degree programme validated by Canterbury that will be starting here next year. Here's a few bits and pieces from the last few weeks!

'You're a real Zambian now!'
'You're looking a bit pokey', said my Zambian friend, gesturing with her hands around her hips, and puffing out her cheeks. I think she meant podgy. Completely oblivious to the horror and desolation that she had caused me, she continued, 'Yes! You look like a real Zambian now, beautiful!'. Oh dear. I tired to explain it was actually my skirt that was the offender, that it was actually a bit 'roomy' and so looked like a tent on me… I trailed off as she waved her finger at me smiling and said 'You've been eating nshima, I can tell!!! You are a real Zambian now!' She walked off laughing still making wide sweeps next to her hips. I think I'd made her day. I think she'd done something else to mine. Hum. On coming here I had wanted to try and fit into the 'culture', learning a bit of the language, cooking local food (not caterpillar though), wearing skirts not jeans etc. However, gaining the African style hips that are so desired here, were not on my agenda. Nor were they ever going to be. I walked home – no, I ran home before anyone else saw my 'pokey' hips and made a firm resolution to never wear that skirt again… and to eat less chocolate…

Bride Price

Staying overnight in the Anglican guesthouse in Lusaka (on my way to Livingstone, hoorah!), I was chatting to the Rev'd Rogers Banda who told me, 'When you find your man, show him to me, and I can negotiate the bride price on behalf of your parents! You see, you're half Zambian now, so you'll have to tell him that he will have to pay a bride price for you – and I can get 10% commission! Ha ha!!' I laughed and cried out, 'But I don't want to be anyone's possession! I'm not going to be bought like tea or coffee!' 'Ah, no!' Rogers exclaimed. 'It's not like that at all. You've got it all wrong. You see, no one can get you for free. You're precious and your man has to show how precious you are by giving money or cattle or whatever to your parents. No man should get a woman for free.'

Steam time

This rationale was a good antidote to a depressing community meeting I had been to the week before, where we were discussing the issue of 'wife battering'. The general consensus was that it is okay for a husband to nip or slap his wife, but not okay to violently beat her (the fact that both men share the same attitude that women are like children and need to be disciplined for something small or imaginary, is completely irrelevant), and that sometimes it is not the man's fault because he doesn't get any marriage preparation classes unlike the women. The most memorable bit was when a woman stood up and pronounced that it was 'all these human rights things that are causing the problem. I mean, what do you do if the woman is more educated and intelligent than her husband? How is he supposed to tell her what to do?' I sat steaming in the corner, having given up trying to contribute to the discussion as the chairman conveniently ignored my raised hand and bounces from my chair…

'My Sister!'

Stepping into the curios market in Livingstone, we were immediately surrounded by a swarm of men, tugging at our elbows to come and see their stall. 'Ah, Muzungus!' you could hear them say. And then you could see them totting up how much money they thought we had in our big fat white western purses. Fortunately we were staying with the Anglican priest and his family, so I had asked them to teach me a bit of Nyanja; this was a life line – 'Mwachoma bwanji!' I said to the men. They stopped. The hustling stopped. The tugging stopped. The shouting and pleading stopped. Then their faces broke into wide smiles and they slapped their hands into mine and said 'My sister!'. I still had a crowd around me, but they were no longer interested in me because of my money or because I was white, but because I was speaking their language and had therefore shown an interest in them - and we were now sharing lives and stories.
I could never imagine before how much it means to people to make an effort to say 'good evening' in their language, to show that you're not here to look at them, but to be with them and work with them and move with them. I was no longer a rich white prospective wife or tourist. I was now someone's sister. In fact, I had made about ten new brothers all in about 30minutes! All barriers of skin colour, class, gender, race and age were broken down by sharing a few words in the same language – not English, but Nyanja. You see, it may be only a few words, but it shows a kaleidoscope of things – that you value the other person, that you want to know them, that you are interested in them, that you are on the same level as they. And for people living in a land which is still in the shadow of the horrors of discrimination, a land which bears scars and has fresh wounds of political corruption, violence and poverty, that means more than you or I could imagine.

Argh!

Sitting on the coach waiting for it to leave Lusaka and suffering from NBS (numb bum syndrome), a preacher climbed aboard. He looked very swank in his suit and sunglasses. However, it was probably the most repelling experience I have had here! He shouted at us for about 40 minutes, not looking at anyone, ignoring the noise around him, the people squeezing past him trying to find a free seat, the baby crying beside him, the bags being thrown above him, hiding behind the dark glasses but showering us with many Hallelujahs and saliva. He was very animated. I watched his light blue shirt slowly turn to dark blue. My complaint is that it was just so impersonal. He didn't know anyone, and clearly didn't want to get to know anyone hiding behind his sun glasses. He was there to do a job. His mission was to shout as loudly as he could and to say Amen 120 times per minute. This sounds a bit harsh of me, but, I object to God's Word becoming something that is thrown at people without love or grace or mercy. My experience in the craft market and in the seminary has shown me that loving people and knowing people come alongside any kind of proclamation of God in words or action. Jesus didn't just arrive in a space ship, stand on a chariot and shout loudly. He lived with people, ate and talked with people, and got to know people. He loved people and opened their eyes so they could see that love. God's promise does not mean anything if it is delivered detached from love and companionship.

Rainbow Heaven

I have talked on and on without actually mentioning Victoria Falls! But words can't really do justice to the beauty or to the sheer majesty of the Falls. I gazed upon them and realised how I small I was and how amazing God is. And there were so many rainbows; we even stayed on late to see the lunar rainbow (which only appears when there is a full moon). There is so much about nature that is breathtaking and beyond understanding, so much that we will never even see or know about, until maybe one day…

Prayer Points

The students arrive back this weekend from their holiday. Please pray that parting with families and loved ones wasn't/isn't too painful, and that they have safe journeys. Pray that this term will help to, in the words of one of the students, make them not into 'informed informers, but transformed transformers'.
Thank God for my to visit Livingstone with one of my work colleagues, and for the wonderful time we had there and the friends that we made.
Please continue to pray for the situation in Zimbabwe. The media there are under tight political control, and the Roman Catholic Church has been warned about its stance against the government and injustices in society. A letter by a sixteen-year old Zimbabwean gives us a glimpse of what life is like: 'Our once-proud nation is on its knees. We flee or die. This beautiful, bountiful once-rich land has become a living hell… We're too tired, too broken, too bankrupt... We cannot afford to eat, we cannot afford to drink, and we cannot afford to make mistakes, because if we do we die. We're waiting desperately for a great hand to pick us up out of the dirt because… our spirit has gone; we are defeated. There is no will left, no spirit... The thought of picking ourselves up again is sickening; one can only take so many blows before oblivion is reached, and we are teetering on the rim of the bottomless void. One more push will be the end of us all...' The writer then pleads that people will use the power of prayer to pray and pray and pray.
I am teaching three new modules this term. Please pray that God gives me the ability to both teach passionately in a relevant and culturally appropriate way, and to learn new things everyday.
Thank you again for reading this and for your prayers!

Over these past few weeks I have seen how important friendship and companionship are in all communities, within cultures and between cultures, in climbing walls and opening doors. I have seen how valuable friendship is in making small steps together and in 'rocking the world'. I have seen how vital friendship is in loving and in feeling loved, in seeing God and in being seen. My prayer is that we will always be touched by the precious gift of friendship, and that in the lonely moments we can gaze upwards and forwards in hope to a time when we will know ultimate companionship standing in the fullness of God's love.

With love, laughter and prayers,
Em xxx

 

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